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Makers infuse designs with vintage look
Posted : May 06, 2008

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Ring
  Model R600651S from Viennois of mainland China features Swarovski crystals and glass stones on a platinum-plated alloy band.
Various shapes, colors and sizes of genuine and imitation gems are combined to create styles that mimic those of bygone eras.

Jewelry suppliers in mainland China and Hong Kong are releasing cocktail rings reminiscent of Edwardian, art deco and retro styles.

CZs are adopted in most designs, although companies are also using Austria crystals and imitation gemstones in some models. The faux gems imitate emeralds, peridots, turquoise, amethyst, onyx, rubies and aquamarines. Genuine versions of these semiprecious stones are incorporated in higher-priced versions.

Most gems have faceted surfaces to bring out the luster and luminance of the stones. Some are even foil-backed. Only genuine or imitation turquoise, onyx, carnelian and jade come in cabochons, but these are typically combined with faceted crystals.

The majority of the stones are set on metal bands by way of prongs. A number of models, however, feature gems that are glued onto the surface to create faux pave, channel or bezel settings.

To mimic the jewelry style prevalent during the Edwardian period, clear CZs are combined with colored stones. Freshwater pearls are incorporated in some designs as well. These are set on metal plated in rhodium, white gold, palladium or platinum. Some bands even have filigree work, although that is limited to areas near the stone settings.

As a throwback to the art deco era, geometric colored gems in deep emeralds and in radiant, princess and asscher cuts are adopted. These feature mostly as large center stones, surrounded by small pave- or channel-set crystals. Black onyx cabochons bezel-set on white metal bands are also offered.

Oversized floral settings on yellow or rose gold bands reflect the design aesthetic of the retro period. Models may either have one large gem and several petal-shaped clusters, or an assortment of small crystals forming many tiny flowers. A few styles mimic wildlife as well, including serpentine settings with green stones.

Among the interviewed mainland companies, Zursana Jewelry Co. Ltd adopts locally sourced CZs in its range of cocktail rings. The faceted stones are made to look like amethysts, rubies and aquamarines, and are often prong-set on the bands. In general, 1mm-wide 925 sterling silver bands plated in rhodium, white gold or platinum are used.

Designs from Viennois Fashion Jewelry Co. Ltd feature mostly Swarovski crystals and glass stones. Freshwater pearls are interspersed in some models and a few even have tiger's eyes. The stones are set on 2 to 3mm-wide metal bands plated in silver, white or yellow gold, palladium or platinum. Versions with an antique finish, and wider or thinner bands are available as well.

HK Yani Industrial Co. Ltd mixes natural carnelian and jade with CZs. Both cabochons and faceted stones are adopted. The bands come mainly in silver- or gold-plated zinc alloy or brass. Thin and wide bands, and white, yellow and rose gold plating are available.

Beijing Guanhong Jewelry Manufacture Co. Ltd also adopts genuine gemstones such as onyx and marcasite in designs. Most models, however, feature faceted CZs that are about 10mm in diameter. These are set on zinc alloy, 925 sterling silver or brass bands that are plated in rhodium, silver or 14 to 18K white gold. Two- or three-tone finishes can be produced as well.

In Hong Kong, DragonSQL Marketing sources CZs and glass stones mostly from the mainland, particularly in Guangzhou. It also uses Austria crystals in its range of cocktail rings, some of which are exported under the in-house Attitude brand. The stones are usually set on steel-plated alloy. Higher-priced designs, however, come with bands that are plated in titanium, platinum or gold.

Among the company's best-selling models are rings that feature large, faceted colored CZs surrounded by small clear Austria crystals. The center stones are usually round or pear-shaped, and often prong-set.

Most models have diameters measuring between 16 and 23mm.

Gold Hero Industrial Ltd uses mostly mainland-made glass stones. Both clear and colored versions are adopted, with some finished to look like genuine gems such as jade. These are affixed onto zinc alloy bands that are nickel-free-plated in imitation rhodium. A number of bands also have an antique finish.

ADM Trading Ltd offers a range of low-end to high-end cocktail rings priced anywhere between $0.80 and $5.70 each. Among the best-selling designs is a snake-shaped band studded with round imitation emeralds and peridots. Models featuring layers of petal-shaped crystals and a prong-set center stone are popular as well.

In addition to cocktail rings, the trading company exports bags, scarves, belts, hair accessories and other types of fashion jewelry to the US and Europe.

Note: All price quotes in this report are in US dollars unless otherwise specified. FOB prices were provided by the companies interviewed only as reference prices at the time of interview and may have changed.
Disclaimer: All product images are provided by the companies interviewed and are for reference purposes only. Those product images featuring products with trademarks, brand names or logos are not intended for sale. We, our affiliates, and our affiliates' respective directors, officers, employees, representatives, agents or contractors, do not accept and will not have any responsibility or liability for product images (or any part thereof) which infringe on any intellectual property or other rights of a third party.
 
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